3,000 km, and a shortcut home via Kaliningrad

Three thousand kilometres in the rear-view mirror — and a “shortcut” home via Kaliningrad.

We left Latvia relatively early: a long day of driving awaited. In the end, about six hours of it, in the car or on a ferry.

We began Lithuania at the Hill of Crosses. The first crosses stood here in the 19th century; under Soviet rule it became a place of quiet resistance; today it’s both pilgrimage site and tourist draw. Some people will find it far more meaningful than we did, but it’s a strange, striking place, well worth seeing.

The day’s main destination was Klaipėda — specifically its half on the Curonian Spit. You can only reach it by ferry, though the crossing takes five minutes.

We started the visit by the dolphinarium, where the dolphins and sea lions put on a slick show. Apparently the dolphins participate voluntarily; they certainly looked like they were enjoying it.

Next stop was Nida at the southern end of the spit, right next to Kaliningrad. You pay a thirty-euro entry fee to drive into the area. The whole peninsula is very holiday-tuned, and Nida is no exception — a beautiful seaside promenade and plenty of restaurants.

After a snack we tried to take a shortcut home, but a no entry sign turned us back — we had to return the way we came, towards the ferry.

We made one more stop at the spit’s signature feature: the dunes. The Curonian Spit has the largest moving sand dunes in Europe. Barefoot across the sand was wonderful; the kids sprinted and got thoroughly coated. At the end of the trail, a viewpoint over the sea. Dark clouds in the distance gave the place a beautiful, brooding atmosphere.